Top 10 Things to Do in Shanghai

The French Concession is a lovely part of Shanghai because, despite the fact that you're in the heart of a city with a population exceeding seventeen million, it feels like you're just in a local neighborhood. The French imported plane trees in the early 1900s and these trees still line both sides of every street in the area. These days, old villas and lane houses are being renovated and turned into lovely shops and homes. It's fun to wander the less-congested streets and watch oldies chatting on the sidewalks and vendors market their wares. Here are two French Concession Walking Tours I recommend:

Shaoxing Road Walking Tour

Fuxing Road Walking Tour

The Bund is Shanghai's most famous landmark. You might have buzzed in and out of a fancy dinner in one of the renovated buildings but take a morning to really enjoy the area and peek inside some of the buildings. A great way to visit the Bund on a nice day is to be dropped off at the Peace Hotel (formerly the Cathay Hotel) and walk south, ducking into buildings along the way. Not to be missed:

• A walk through the renovated Art-Deco Peace Hotel (currently closed for renovation)
• The HSBC Building's fully restored lobby
• Brunch or a drink at M on the Bund (see "Sundowners" below)
• Three on the Bund's Terrace at New Heights (seventh floor)
• Strolling along the far side on the promenade next to the Huang Pu River

While kitschy, the Yu Garden area is a fun place to explore. The whole area around the gardens has been renovated in traditional style Chinese architecture with curving tile eaves that make you feel like you've finally found "Chinatown". Wander through the lanes and alleys and find everything you might want to take home as souvenirs from silk pajamas to chopsticks. Eventually, you'll come to the Huxingting Tea House that supposedly inspired the design in the famous Blue Willow china pattern. Across the way is the entrance to Yuyuan Garden itself where you can follow crowds through a classical Ming garden.

If you'd like to see what's happening on the contemporary art scene in China, take a taxi to Moganshan Road near Suzhou Creek. Once just factories and warehouses, the area is now a thriving art colony full of galleries of all sizes. There's a café near the entrance to the lane where you can have a nice coffee once you've seen the scene. Not to be missed:

• Art Scene Warehouse, Building 4, 2F
• EastLink Gallery, Building 6, 5F
• Shanghart, Building 16 & 18

Moganshan Road #50, near Suzhou Creek

After fronting the crowds on the Bund promenade - it's a rite of passage - there's nothing more relaxing than slipping up to the sixth floor of 5 on the Bund where the Glamour Bar sits and looks out over the Huang Pu. Open at 5pm for cocktails, you'll likely be one of few inhabiting the place during week days and you can relax with your friends, or your guidebook, and take in the view. You'll see the sun (if you're lucky) bouncing hot pink off the Oriental Pearl Tower across the river.

Now the second tallest building in Shanghai, the Jin Mao stands at 88 floors. Its remarkable architecture is recognizable on a clear day from all over the city. There's an observation deck on the 88th floor (access 50rmb, US$6) where you have spectacular views of the neighboring skyscrapers and the sprawling city. Enjoy similar views with a cocktail in hand at the Cloud 9 bar on the 87th floor of the Grand Hyatt hotel. Note, access to the observation deck and Cloud 9 are separate. Follow signs at ground level to the observation deck, follow Grand Hyatt signs to get to the hotel elevators and Cloud 9.

If you're in the mood for some shopping but are tired of touts shoving fake watches in your face, head to Taikang Road. A walk down the road lets you see local Shanghai life at its best: street vendors selling pancakes and fruit, kids scampering about and women hanging up laundry. Then find alley 210 and wander down the lane. It's full of shops and cafes selling everything from traditional Chinese qi pao dresses to funky silver jewelry. Not to be missed:

• Marion Carsten jewelry
• Kommune Cafe
• Nest

Cross-street/intersection: Taikang Road and Sinan Road

This small road, not far from Xin Tian Di, is Shanghai's answer to Beijing's Panjiayuan Market. While tiny in comparison to Panjiayuan, Dong Tai Road is lined with stalls and shops selling all that is junk and treasure in chinoiserie. You can find all kinds of items including Mao memorabilia, porcelain, old wooden rice buckets and brightly painted opera masks. It's worth a wander just to see what's on offer but don't forget your bargaining skills.

Cross-street/intersection: Dong Tai Road near Fuxing Road and Xizang Road