Sunday September 5, 2010
September sort of sneaked up on me. It doesn't feel like autumn yet in Shanghai - my whole family managed to get a good sunburn at the swimming pool on Saturday (always nice to end the season a little crispy). But the weather has certainly broken and we're no longer having 35-40 degree days and you can actually tell that the temperature went down a few degrees at night. So autumn is on its way and I better get organized as Mooncake Season is upon us.
The Mid-Autumn Festival lands on September 22 this year and rather than one day off, the government is closing shop for 3 days (September 22-24). In its wacky way, to give 3 consecutive days, the government obliges folks to work September 19 (Sunday) and September 25 (Saturday) in order to compensate the 23rd and 24th. This really doesn't mean much to the traveler or visitor to China as hotels, tourist attractions, shops and restaurants will all be open for business as usual. It just means school kids and office workers get 3 days off but have to go to school or work on the weekend.
Digression aside, you can already start buying your mooncakes to celebrate 中秋节 (Zhongqiujie - literally Mid-Autumn Festival). There's the traditional giant one in my grocery store reminding everyone to order up. Time to pass around those little cakes to show appreciation for the moon and such.
October Holidays are also around the corner. October 1st is China's National Day (61 in 2010, happy anniversary!) and workers and students will be getting a whole 7 consecutive days for this one. (Compensated on the September 26 and October 9 of course.) This holiday may impact travelers a little more as fares do increase and hotels get crowded. Plan early.
Read more:
Monday August 30, 2010
It had been on my mind to start getting some information on tour companies on this web site for a while. A reader had written in complaining (rightly) that I didn't cover this subject well and I had been mulling over how best to do it when a kind operator (and also blog reader) from China Odyssey Tours wrote to see if I would review their services. As my dear readers know, I was planning a trip with my family anyway so I took them up on their offer.
Since I've been in China for so long, I'm wary of tour companies. (I have a - sometimes false - sense that I don't need any help and can do it all myself when it comes to trip planning.) Using a tour company has 2 components. One is the planning component and if you've got someone helping you who has good suggestions and is willing to work with you and your needs, then this is a sign of a good agency. China Odyssey Tours scores very high here. The other aspect is your guide and with any tour, you could be in a great location with a bad guide or a bad location with a great guide. This will color your tour significantly. We enjoyed our guide and thought he did well despite our last-minute changes and needs.
Read all about our experience with the company:
Photos: top - one of Qingdao's famous beaches; bottom - raising a glass of Tsingtao at the International Beer Festival. © 2010 Sara Naumann, licensed to About.com.
Tuesday August 24, 2010
I'm taking a break from Qingdao talk to tell you that my favorite tea house - Song Fang Maison de Thé - has new outlets selling the teas just off the Bund and in Pudong. You can slip into the Fuzhou Lu outlet after you've bought some new slippers at Suzhou Cobblers and stock up on tea for you and all your friends. Across the Huang Pu, you can visit the new über-posh IFC mall to find the teas for sale in City Super.
Being such a fan, I'm thrilled Song Fang has more outlets. But if you have the time, do try to go to the tea house in the former French Concession to sit and sample.
Details:
- Song Fang Tea House - 227 Yongjia Lu (永嘉露227号)
- Bund Shop - 19 Fuzhou Lu (福州路19号)
- City Super in the IFC Mall - 8 Century Avenue, Pudong(世纪大道8号国金中心)
Saturday August 21, 2010
I groaned when I looked out of our hotel window after we checked in to see that across the street a high-end shopping mall housed the likes of Gucci and Prada. Next door to the hotels are branches of two of our favorite restaurants in Shanghai (which admittedly are all over China) South Beauty and Din Tai Fung. But I came to Qingdao to experience something new. I was sad to see that Qingdao was just another Chinese city with all the same stuff as every other one. Today, however, we had a half-day walking tour with Marcus Murphy of Qingdao Adventures who not only gave us a great little tour of historical Qingdao, he took us down side-streets that we never would have found on our own - proving that Qingdao does have some special qualities not found anywhere else in China.
First off, Qingdao is home to the liyuan - a courtyard style-housing compound that used to house most Chinese in the city. The compounds are continually being sacrificed to modern high-rises but there are a few left where folks still live and some are being renovated into hotels and tourist markets.
It's fun to duck into these courtyard buildings because you wouldn't even know they're there unless you take the time to enter through the archway. While they're run-down now, Marcus pointed out that it would be great if the government renovated them for the people to live in rather then destroy them or turn them into tourist traps. Even so, there are some good stories to be told. One liyuan we visited apparently housed a brothel in the 1940s and the story goes that after Liberation (1949), the Communists raided the brothel and threw all the ladies' perfumes out the windows into the middle of the courtyard making the whole neighborhood smell for weeks.
The best part of our tour was simply enjoying the local feel of the city away from scenic spots and hoards of tourists. Another of Qingdao's unique qualities is the charming way you buy beer from the local shop. Just show up and buy a bag. They have a knack for pouring it from the bag into mugs (not sure I could do it). Marcus also introduced us to local cuisine la gala. We had these spicy clams for lunch and liked them so much, we had them again at dinner.
Photos: top - the brothel liyuan, middle - a local buys his bag of beer for the day, bottom - a close-up of la gala spicy Qingdao clams. © 2010 Sara Naumann, licensed to About.com.